Antwerp lace, is a bobbin lace Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow distinguished by stylized flower pot motifs on a six point star ground. It originated in Antwerp Antwerp (English: /ˈæntwɜrp/ ; Dutch: Antwerpen, [ˈɑntˌʋɛrpə(n)] ( listen); French: Anvers, [ɑ̃vɛʁ, ɑ̃vɛʁs]) is a city and municipality in Belgium and the capital of the Antwerp province in Flanders, one of Belgium's three regions. Antwerp's total population is 472,071 (as of 1 January 2008) and its total area is 204.51 km2 (78.96, where in the 17th century an estimated 50% of the population of Antwerp Antwerp (English: /ˈæntwɜrp/ ; Dutch: Antwerpen, [ˈɑntˌʋɛrpə(n)] ( listen); French: Anvers, [ɑ̃vɛʁ, ɑ̃vɛʁs]) is a city and municipality in Belgium and the capital of the Antwerp province in Flanders, one of Belgium's three regions. Antwerp's total population is 472,071 (as of 1 January 2008) and its total area is 204.51 km2 (78.96 was involved in lace making. Antwerp lace is also known, from its familiar repeated motif, as Pot Lace— in Dutch Pottenkant or Potten Kant.[1][2] It is sometimes said that the flowers were a depiction of the Annunciation lilies Annunciation is the Christian celebration of the announcement by the angel Gabriel to Mary that she would become the Theotokos . Despite being a virgin, Mary would miraculously conceive a child who would be called the Son of God. Gabriel told Mary to name her son Jesus, meaning "YHWH delivers". Most of Christianity observes this event;[2] however, the flowers were not limited to lilies.[3]

It is a continuous lace, meaning that it was made in one piece on a lace pillow, using the same threads in the pattern as in the ground, or réseau.[4][5] Antwerp lace is very similar to Mechlin lace Mechlin lace is a bobbin lace originally produced in Mechlin. It is one of the best known Flemish laces. It is fine, transparent, and looks best when worn over another color. It was made in Mechlin, Antwerp, Lier and Turnhout. It was used for coiffures de nuit, garnitures de corset, ruffles and cravats, which was also made in Antwerp. Antwerp lace is heavier and sturdier than Mechlin lace.[1] It has a cordonnet, or a flat thread outlining the pattern, just as Mechlin lace does. The cordonnet was very strong and rather coarse.[3] Antwerp lace was also similar to Binche lace Binche lace is a Flemish bobbin lace that originated in Binche, Belgium. It is continuous, meaning it is made all at once, in one piece. It is generally made in strips 2 inches wide. Though typically it has no cordonnet outlining the design against the ground, occasional pieces are made with a very fine one, about the same thickness as the thread in its cordonnet.[2] The réseau or ground for Antwerp lace varies from the same hexagonal ground as Mechlin lace Mechlin lace is a bobbin lace originally produced in Mechlin. It is one of the best known Flemish laces. It is fine, transparent, and looks best when worn over another color. It was made in Mechlin, Antwerp, Lier and Turnhout. It was used for coiffures de nuit, garnitures de corset, ruffles and cravats to a tessellation A tessellation or tiling of the plane is a collection of plane figures that fills the plane with no overlaps and no gaps. One may also speak of tessellations of parts of the plane or of other surfaces. Generalizations to higher dimensions are also possible. Tessellations frequently appeared in the art of M. C. Escher. Tessellations are seen-pattern featuring a six-pointed star.

History

Antwerp lace was being made during the 16th century. When the Dutch closed the river Scheldt The Scheldt is a 350 km long river in northern France, western Belgium and the southwestern part of the Netherlands. Its name is derived from an adjective corresponding to Old English sceald "shallow", Modern English shoal, Low German schol, Frisian skol, and Swedish skäll "thin" to shipping in 1585 due to Antwerp falling under Spanish control, the production of Antwerp lace halted.[6] By 1698 Antwerp lace was known in England.[7] It first became popular as an export to the Spanish Indies, however when that market died the lace survived in traditional dress among the peasants near Antwerp. It was used mainly for trimming their hats throughout the 18th and 19th century.[1]

References

  1. ^ a b c Earnshaw, Pat (February 1999). A Dictionary of Lace. Dover Publications. p. 6. ISBN The International Standard Book Number is a unique numeric commercial book identifier based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering (SBN) code created by Gordon Foster, now Emeritus Professor of Statistics at Trinity College, Dublin, for the booksellers and stationers W.H. Smith and others in 1966 048640482X. http://books.google.com/books?id=mjYWZ2mogv8C&pg=PA6&dq=antwerp+a+city+and+important+seaport+of+Flanders&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=Lwrs5Va2PNx3FjUQFHITZBB3qRA. Retrieved 2008-05-20.
  2. ^ a b c Blum, Clara (June 2002). Old World Lace: A Concise Illustrated Guide. Dover. pp. 37–39. ISBN The International Standard Book Number is a unique numeric commercial book identifier based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering (SBN) code created by Gordon Foster, now Emeritus Professor of Statistics at Trinity College, Dublin, for the booksellers and stationers W.H. Smith and others in 1966 0486421503. http://books.google.com/books?id=bh1MYkEzpJUC&pg=PA7&vq=Antwerp+lace&dq=antwerp+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&source=gbs_search_s&sig=VY0gKq_64IDYRRvMyay62KsjQ9Y. Retrieved 2008-05-20.
  3. ^ a b "Mechlin and Antwerp". http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/jm_lacer.pdf.
  4. ^ Sharp, Mary (March 2007). Point and Pillow Lace. Herron Press. p. 147. ISBN The International Standard Book Number is a unique numeric commercial book identifier based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering (SBN) code created by Gordon Foster, now Emeritus Professor of Statistics at Trinity College, Dublin, for the booksellers and stationers W.H. Smith and others in 1966 1406745626. http://books.google.com/books?id=SjVqcPZF30cC&pg=PR12&dq=antwerp+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=aLZ1d9966oXX6Bl2kOwql63ajYI. Retrieved 2008-05-20.
  5. ^ Earnshaw, Pat (February 1999). A Dictionary of Lace. Dover Publications. p. 13. ISBN The International Standard Book Number is a unique numeric commercial book identifier based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering (SBN) code created by Gordon Foster, now Emeritus Professor of Statistics at Trinity College, Dublin, for the booksellers and stationers W.H. Smith and others in 1966 048640482X. http://books.google.com/books?id=mjYWZ2mogv8C&pg=PA13&dq=antwerp+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=CmZUzeaL3tmGhouuMCUrTstzbQA. Retrieved 2008-05-20.
  6. ^ Deboeck, Guido (2007). Flemish DNA & Ancestry: History of Three Families Over. Dokus Publishing. p. 69. ISBN The International Standard Book Number is a unique numeric commercial book identifier based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering (SBN) code created by Gordon Foster, now Emeritus Professor of Statistics at Trinity College, Dublin, for the booksellers and stationers W.H. Smith and others in 1966 0972552677. http://books.google.com/books?id=gMFoRbjakCUC&pg=PA69&dq=Binche+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=vbQAWN0GhIU1pqqDNeTW7Z_qskI. Retrieved 2008-05-24.
  7. ^ Palliser, Bury (November 1984). History of Lace. Dover Publications. pp. 115–116. ISBN The International Standard Book Number is a unique numeric commercial book identifier based upon the 9-digit Standard Book Numbering (SBN) code created by Gordon Foster, now Emeritus Professor of Statistics at Trinity College, Dublin, for the booksellers and stationers W.H. Smith and others in 1966 0486247422. http://books.google.com/books?id=viEMAAAAYAAJ&pg=RA1-PA116&dq=antwerp+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera. Retrieved 2008-05-20.
Lace Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand. The holes can be formed via removal of threads or cloth from a previously woven fabric, but more often open spaces are created as part of the lace fabric. Lace-making is an ancient craft. True lace was not made until the late 15th and early 16th types
Needle lace Needle lace is a type of lace created using a needle and thread to stitch up hundreds of small stitches to form the lace itself: Punto in Aria Punto in Aria is an early form of Needle lace, devised in Italy. It is considered the first true lace because it was the first meant to be stitched alone, and not first onto a woven fabric · Point de Venise Point de Venise is a Venetian needle lace from the 17th century characterized by scrolling floral patterns with additional floral motifs worked in relief (in contrast with the geometric designs of the earlier reticella) · Point de France · Alençon Alençon lace or point d'Alençon is a needle lace that originated in Alençon, France. It is sometimes called the "Queen of lace." Lace began being manufactured in originated in Alençon in the 16th century. The local industry was promoted by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, during the reign of Louis XIV, who established a Royal Lace Workshop · Argentan · Argentella · Armenian Like Lacis, Armenian needlelace seems to be an obvious descendant of netmaking. Where lacis adds decorative stitches to a net ground, Armenian needlelace involves making the net itself decorative · Hollie Point Hollie Point is a flat needlepoint lace with rows of knotted buttonhole stitches worked over stretched threads. Simple designs are created by holes left in otherwise plain cloth work formed by the buttonhole stitches. Noted for its appearance in baby clothes in the 18th and early 19th century, particularly in caps, the shoulder seams of shirts, · Point de Gaze · Youghal Youghal lace is a needle lace inspired by Italian needle lace developed in Youghal, County Cork, Ireland · Kenmare Lace Kenmare Lace is a hand made needlepoint lace originally made in Kenmare, Ireland. In the 1800s, sisters of the Poor Clare convent introduced needlepoint lace to the women and girls of the locality. It was a response to the poverty that followed the Great Famine. The initiative was of immeasurable help to the people of the area in those difficult · Limerick Embroidered: Reticella Reticella is a needle lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century · Buratto Buratto is an Italian needle lace made by darning on a net. It is quite similar in appearance to filet lace but with one important distinction—it is darned onto a woven net, rather than the knotted net used for filet. Buratto tends to also be heavier in appearance due to the woven nature of the netting used · Filet/Lacis Filet lace is a Needle lace created by darning on a ground of knotted net or netting · Ñandutí Ñandutí is a traditional Paraguayan embroidered lace, introduced by the Spaniards, that is related to Teneriffe lace. The name means "spider web" in Guaraní, the official, indigenous language of Paraguay · Needlerun Net Needlerun Net refers to a family of laces created by using a needle to embroider on a net ground. Along with Tambour lace this became more popular with the advent of machine made netting · Tambour Tambour lace refers to a family of lace made by stretching a fine net over a frame and creating a chain stitch using a fine hook to reach through the net and draw the working thread through the net · Teneriffe Teneriffe lace is a needle lace from the island of Tenerife. Sometimes called Sol lace, sun lace, similar to a lace from South America called ñandutí . In the 1930s - 1940s it was sometimes called Polka Spider Web Lace Cut Work: Battenberg · Broderie Anglaise Broderie Anglaise is a whitework needlework technique incorporating features of embroidery, cutwork and needle lace that arose in England in the 19th century · Carrickmacross Carrickmacross lace is a type of needle lace. Originating in Carrickmacross, Ireland in the early 19th century, it is still practised today
Bobbin lace Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow: Ancient: Antwerp · Ecclesiastical · Freehand The very early bobbin laces were probably made freehand, as pins were scarce, coarse, and expensive. At first, the laces were purely utilitarian: “seaming” laces joining narrow widths of fabric, and toothed or scalloped laces reinforcing the edges (edgings). Many of the later freehand laces were also functional, but some areas produced very · Torchon Torchon lace is a bobbin lace that was made all over Europe. It is continuous, with the pattern made at the same time as the ground. Torchon lace is notable for being coarse and strong, as well as its simple geometric patterns and straight lines. It does not use representational designs. Torchon lace was used by the middle classes for edging or Continental: Binche Binche lace is a Flemish bobbin lace that originated in Binche, Belgium. It is continuous, meaning it is made all at once, in one piece. It is generally made in strips 2 inches wide. Though typically it has no cordonnet outlining the design against the ground, occasional pieces are made with a very fine one, about the same thickness as the thread · Flanders · Mechlin Mechlin lace is a bobbin lace originally produced in Mechlin. It is one of the best known Flemish laces. It is fine, transparent, and looks best when worn over another color. It was made in Mechlin, Antwerp, Lier and Turnhout. It was used for coiffures de nuit, garnitures de corset, ruffles and cravats · Paris · Valenciennes Valenciennes lace is a type of bobbin lace which originated in Valenciennes, in the Nord département of France, and flourished from about 1705 to 1780. Later production moved to Belgium in and around Ypres. The industry continued onto the 19th century on a diminished scale. By the 19th century valenciennes lace could be made by machine Point ground: Bayeux · Blonde Blonde lace is a continuous bobbin lace from France that is made of silk. The term blonde refers to the natural color of the silk thread. Originally this lace was made with the natural-colored silk, and later in black. Most blonde lace was also made in black. It was made in the 18th and 19th centuries. The pattern, which is generally of flowers, · Bucks point Bucks point is a bobbin lace from the East Midlands in England. "Bucks" is short for Buckinghamshire, which was the main center of production. The lace was also made in the nearby counties of Bedfordshire and Northamptonshire. Bucks point is very similar to the French Lille lace, and thus is often called English Lille. It is also similar · Chantilly Chantilly lace is a handmade bobbin lace named after the city of Chantilly, France, dating from the 17th century, though the most famous are silk laces introduced in the 18th century. Though called Chantilly lace, most of the lace bearing this name was actually made in Bayeux in France and Geraardsbergen, now in Belgium · Tønder Tønder lace is a point-ground type of handmade bobbin lace identified with the Tønder region of Denmark since about 1850, although lace of many types has been made there since as early as 1650. The term is also used more broadly, to refer to any bobbin lace made in Denmark · Beveren · Lille Guipure: Genoese · Venetian · Bedfordshire · Cluny · Maltese Part laces: Honiton · Bruges · Brussels Brussels lace is a type of pillow lace that originated in and around Brussels. The term "Brussels lace" has been broadly used for any lace from Brussels, however the term strictly interpreted refers to bobbin lace, in which the pattern is made first, then the ground, or réseau, added, also using bobbin lace. Brussels lace is not to be Tape: Milanese · Flemish · Russian · Peasant
Tape lace: Mezzopunto · Princess · Renaissance · Romanian point
Knotted lace: Macramé Macramé or macrame is a form of textile-making using knotting rather than weaving or knitting. Its primary knots are the square knot and forms of hitching . It has been used by sailors, especially in elaborate or ornamental knotting forms to decorate anything from knife handles to bottles to parts of ships · Tatting Tatting is a technique for handcrafting a particularly durable lace constructed by a series of knots and loops. Tatting can be used to make lace edging as well as doilies, collars, and other decorative pieces. The lace is formed by a pattern of rings and chains formed from a series of cow hitch, or half-hitch knots, called double stitches , over a
Crocheted lace Crochet lace is an application of the art of crochet. Generally it uses finer threads and more decorative styles of stitching - often with flowing lines or scalloped edges to give interest. Variation of the size of the holes also gives a piece a "lacy' look: Broomstick lace Broomstick lace is a historic crochet technique from the 1800s which is done using a crochet hook and another long slender item such as a knitting needle. It is also known as jiffy lace and peacock eye crochet. Traditionally a broomstick was used, hence the name, but the modern variant is a lightweight plastic knitting needle or smooth wooden · Irish crochet Lace-making has always been an important part of the Irish needlework tradition. When times were hard women always had to find ways of supporting their family. This was particularly true during and after the great potato famine of the 1840s. In those days most women could do needlework, so it was only a short step to lace-making. Irish Crochet and · Hairpin Hairpin lace is a crochet technique done using a crochet hook and a hairpin lace loom, which consists of two parallel metal rods held at the top and the bottom by removable bars. Historically, a metal U-shaped hairpin was used, from which the name originates · Filet crochet
Lace knitting: Lace knitting
Machine-made lace: Warp Knit · Bobbinet · Leavers · Pusher · Barmen · Curtain Machine · Chemical Hand Finished: Hand-run Gimps

Categories: Lace | Antwerp | Belgian fashion

 

The above information uses material from Wikipedia and is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License.
Some facts may not have been fully verified for accuracy. [Disclaimers]
This page was last archived by our server on Wed Jun 23 11:29:00 2010. [ refresh local cache ]
Displaying this page or its contents does not use any Wikimedia Foundation's resources.
The owners of this site proudly support the Wikimedia Foundation.

[Hide]▼
[Hide]▲